New Pup Primer
A few points to keep in mind:
1. Coccidia
2. Ear Problems
3. Eating & Schedule
4. House Training
1. Coccidia: First of all, humans cannot "catch" the Coccidia protozoa.The pup may have or develop Coccidia, but the pup will outgrow it, eventually. The symptoms of Coccidia are runny stool, even bloody stool. Many other things will also cause the same symptoms, [like poop eating, which is a normal behavior --and an instinctive food conservation remnant, from their ancient ancestors --wolves].
So a stool sample must be taken to determine if the pup has Coccidia. The problem with this is that oft times vets misdiagnose parasites---protozoa---which oft times leads to wrong meds, and over medication, which in and of themselves, are a problem. The ONE medication used for Coccidia is Albon, and it will sometimes cause a permanent dry eye condition ---requiring drops in the dog's eyes --- permanently. Permanent dry eye may not sound like a big problem, but it can be, as when permanent dry eye occurs, the dog will go blind without the required moistening drops --- 4-6 times daily. Veterinary ophthalmologists are recommending against the use of Albon in small pups now, due to the frequency of dry eye problems occurring, particularly in small breeds.
So, with these thoughts in mind:
1. Although Coccidia is a threat to the immune compromised, and to very tiny [under 5 weeks old] pups, Coccidia should not be a big problem to an 11 week old pup
2. Humans cannot "catch" Coccidia
3. Adult dogs basically have immunity to Coccidia
4. The only treatment approved by the FDA, Albon, can cause a life long eye problem and blindness
5. The pup will outgrow Coccidia, and with simple antibiotics, like amoxicillin, if the pup has any intestinal upset, it will heal, while he outgrows the potential for Coccidia
We therefore, recommend, minimal --- to --- no treatment.
Call me with questions, please.
Now the next issue:
EARS
Lap-Eared Pups, who have lots of ear hair and small ear canals, get the following problems, at this age:
1. Yeast in ears [smell]
2. Bacteria in ears [swelling, extreme redness-pus]
3. Ear Mites [brown crumbly substance appearing within hours after cleaning]
4. Fungus
Please read the ear care article well. It is on the website:
"Fleas, Ears, Eyes & Toes"
After reading it, please keep the following pointers in mind.
1. Ear Mites: The Pup needs Frontline Spray all around the outside of his ears, [not other meds from the vet for mites]. Spray a circle around the ears. Cover the eyes with a small towel. Use the spray around his ears, NOW. Spray around his ears, for Ear Mites, each week. Spray for ear mites each week for two-three weeks.
Fleas: Spray down his spine for Fleas, and add a little extra at the baste of the spine, near the tail. Avoid the wee wee area. Use for Fleas every three to four weeks. Do not do a full body saturation, though you will read that full body saturation is necessary on the directions. Use it at least 24 hrs. after the pup's bath and do not get the pup wet for 48 hrs. after spraying him.
2. The Pup needs morning and evening ear cleaning for the first two weeks. The frequency of bathing, [and, leaving some moisture in ears] and the removal of all ear hair [ tiny skin abrasions occur when the ear hair is removed], increase the probability of yeasty ears. It is normal for young pups, with tiny ear canals and lots of baths, to develop yeast in their ears. And, the tiny skin abrasions which occurred when we removed all of the ear hair [just prior to your receipt of the puppy] increase the probability of yeast in his ears. Clean the ears with swabs dipped in hydrogen peroxide. Dry the ears with a dry swab after cleaning them. See the "Fleas, Ears, Eyes, Toes" article on the website, for info on ear cleaning. Remember to dry the ears after cleaning with a dry swab.
3. After ear cleaning with hydrogen peroxide [please see article], please remember to dry the ear with swabs, and, then, if you like, you can use an alcohol wipe.
4. Your pup will shake his head for a week, due to the ear hair removal, baths and meds.
Please read the ear care article well. It is on the website:
"Fleas, Ears, Eyes & Toes".
Eating & Schedule
PLEASE DO NOT CHANGE THE PUP'S FOOD
CHANGING FOOD ON A SMALL PUP,
WITHOUT MUCH BODY FAT, CAN HAVE DEADLY
CONSEQUENCES
CHANGING FOOD CAN CAUSE IMMEDIATE DEHYDRATION AND DEATH!
Pups eat freely all day long here. Please free feed him all day long for the first week or so. Since the pup is not accustomed to scheduled feedings, we do not want to introduce too many changes at one time.
Moisten about 1/4th cup of DRY food, using equal amounts of water and food. Let the food sit for 30 minutes to absorb the water.
ONLY USE DRY FOOD! CANNED FOOD DOES NOT HAVE GOOD OVERSIGHT IN PRODUCTION, NOR DOES IT HAVE ENOUGH PROTEIN.
Please use these ADULT foods, for your puppy. Mix them half and half.
PURINA O.N.E. in Original, Chicken or Lamb
and
BENEFUL Original
Both Are Adult Formulas. If it does not say Puppy, it is Adult.
Please, do not substitute, unless you have no alternative.
We use a combination of one half "Purina O.N.E. Original" and one half BENEFUL Original. Purina O.N.E. comes in several types. The pup needs Purina O.N.E. in ORIGINAL, LAMB or CHICKEN. Please do not use BEEF. BENEFUL comes in several types, please try to get Original. Keep it moistened for a week, or so, after you get the pup. Then, if you continue to feed moistened food, it will aid your housetraining efforts. Please see the House Training article, on the website. Dry food is better for their teeth, but you can continue to wet the food for a few months, if you prefer. Many people continue wetting the food so they will know that the pup will use the bathroom quickly after eating. After the pup is on a feeding schedule, he will go to the bathroom quickly after eating, if the food is wet. Many people find this an important aspect in house training.
Puppy formulas may have too much calcium for toy breeds. Too much calcium can cause bone disease in Toy Dog pups. If the dog food says "Puppy" it is "Puppy", and if it does not say "Puppy" then it is "Adult". Remember, we want the pup to get ADULT FOOD SO HE WILL NOT GET FOOD WITH CALCIUM.
When they are one year old we Feed BENEFUL only. We stop feeding Purina O.N.E. at one year, because Purina O.N.E. has too much protein for adult dogs. Too much protein can harm their kidneys.
Do not get adult maintenance formula, it has fewer calories.
When you schedule his feeding, after he has been with you for a week or so, we recommend the following:
1. Wake Up Call: 7:00 AM---quick trip to litter tray or outside
2. Moistened Food presented to pup for 15-30 minutes.
3. Trip to litter tray or outside--- and, repeat every hour.
4. Between 4:00-5:00 dinner---food available for 15- 30 min.
5. Trip to litter tray or outside every hour till bedtime
6. Do not take pup out at night--even if you must clean up in the morning, as it sets a bad precedent, and then you will be doing it for years---and, you need your sleep.
7. 10:00 PM --- Bedtime-- tuck him in ---You may want to try this: give warm towels. Place two towels, folded in half, on the floor of the crate. Then take two more towels and fold the two towels lengthwise--- then twist them tightly, making a roll out of each towel. After you have twisted them tightly, place them in a circle, with ends adjoining--- make a donut of them on top of the towels on the crate floor. So, that is two towels on the floor of the crate and two twisted towels in a circle on top of the floor towels---a twisted donut. Place the pup in the donut. Cover him with a warm towel from the dryer. Give your pup a rolled up hand cloth as his pillow---he will soon catch on. Leave his Dr. Noys Frog with him, as they love their toys. Cover the pup's crate with quilts so he will keep warm. He is accustomed to 80 degrees here and we do not want him to catch cold.
Additional Notes:
1. Pups can play for 10 minutes at a time---more and they may get low blood sugar.
2. Pup should have NO Treats, or food, other than moistened food until 4-5 months of age.
3. Pup should only drink bottled water [certainly, NO well water].
4. Water should be available all day, until bedtime.
5. Pup should be gated in a kitchen-laundry-room type area---never give him the run of the house, not till two years of age.
6. Pup will cry for a few nights. You can keep him in his CAGE [not travel case]. Temporarily keep him by your bed. Put your hand over the top, to let him know you are nearby.
7. Children should not hold or walk around with the pup ---the pup can jump and get killed. Broken legs are life-threatening injuries in toy dogs.
8. Children should only play with the pup on the floor, only the floor. Keep them both on the floor when playing, at all times. Children should only play with the pup for 10 minutes at a time. They should play in your presence. Please see "Raising the Most Gentle Pet".
9. Pup should not be taken to play dates, groomer, training classes, parks, roadside, or public places for 6 months as pup can catch incurable diseases there during this time frame. His immune system is not mature yet.
10. Pup cannot drink from a water bottle on the side of a cage. He has never seen one before. Dogs do not get enough water from the water bottles. Water Bottles can spread disease between dogs in the household. If the pup does not get enough water, he will get a bladder infection, and possibly a kidney infection. Water is critical. Pup should have water available all day long.
11. Doggie Doors are the number one reason for stolen dogs. Dogs are only stolen from nice neighborhoods. Puppy doors also allow the dog to escape and get killed by other animals. Birds of prey and neighborhood animals are a whole new set of problems for toy dogs. Other dogs can jump your fence and kill him for no reason other than "they can". We have also heard of thieves getting children to enter their victim's home through the doggie door, and then opening the door for the thieves.
Deborah Owens
